Why popular biryani joints in Haryana’s Mewat district have shut shop this Eid

On Sunday afternoon, at a food stall along the Gurugram to Alwar highway in Haryana’s Muslim-dominated Mewat district, Salauddin, 35, the owner of the joint, negotiated with a group of travellers who wanted to eat biryani. Salauddin attempted to divert their attention to the korma he had, but one of the travellers lost patience and beckoned to his friends, saying they could get biryani elsewhere.

As they left, Salauddin said: “Pure Ghasera se Doha tak biryani kahi nahi milega (There’s no biryani available in any of the joints between Ghasera and Doha).”

At least 60-70 food joints, which largely cater to travellers, normally dot the 60-odd km stretch between Ghasera and Doha villages on the Gurugram-Alwar highway. Of these, almost half exclusively offered biryani till recently. However in the past month, many of them have shut shop or switched to selling alternatives like korma.

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